The Greenbrier: Ultimate Guide to America’s Resort
Nestled in the Allegheny Mountains, the Greenbrier is more than just a resort—it’s a living legend. Known as “America’s Resort” guests have been coming here for rest and relaxation since 1778. Today, the Greenbrier offers world-class amenities, from its award-winning mineral spa to a championship golf course. Here’s everything you never thought to ask but should to know about this stunning resort.
Every now and then Jason’s conference schedule takes us someplace we didn’t previously have on our radar and we are shocked to find that place instantly becomes one of our favorites. The Greenbrier Resort in White Sulphur Springs, West Virginia was one of those golden gems that we never expected. Here’s everything we learned about this incredible resort.
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First Impressions of The Greenbrier
As you turn off the quiet West Main Street in White Sulphur Springs through the iconic white columns marking The Greenbrier’s entrance, you can’t help but get excited. Without a doubt, you know that you’re entering a different world. It’s enchanting. Like entering a forgotten era of grandeur and charm.
Speaking of grandeur—everything about The Greenbrier Resort feels grand. From the impressive Colonial Revival architecture to the vibrant flowers stretching out like a football field in front, to the massive portico and towering columns that have welcomed presidents, dignitaries, and royalty since 1913.
The first thing you’ll notice when you step into the stunning split-level lobby is an explosion of color. Tiffany blue, teal, red, green, pink, black and white cover everything in site and a massive white birdcage chandelier hangs overhead. Once you’ve caught your breath, head downstairs to check in.
NBR Travel Tip: The Greenbrier has valet parking for a nightly fee. However, if you aren’t planning to leave the resort more than once or twice we recommend that you opt for self parking. The largest guest parking lot is at the Amtrak station just across the street from the entrance. Shuttles may be available depending on the season. Then, you can spend that extra cash on a delicious dinner or a spa service!
Southern Hospitality and Champagne at Check In
Within minutes of arrival, its easy to see why Southern Living magazine named The Greenbrier hotel one of the 20 Friendliest Places in the South. Particularly because every staff member we passed on our way to reception shared a smile and a cheerful “good morning”. In addition, we were greeted with a warm welcome and chilled champagne at check in (my favorite way to start a stay).
We arrived before the 4pm check-in time, so our room wasn’t ready. No worries. We left our luggage with the bell desk and set off to explore the resort, champagne in hand.
We grabbed lunch at Slammin’ Sammy’s at the golf club. The hotel has a shuttle that can take you to the golf and tennis area, but it’s only a 5-7 minute walk, and the scenery is gorgeous. We decided to walk so we could wander along the trails and get a feel for the place. Meanwhile, our luggage was delivered straight to our room.
The Greenbrier Grounds
Let’s talk about the grounds—The Greenbrier Resort sits on a massive 11,000-acre estate in the Allegheny Mountains of West Virginia. The scenery is absolutely stunning. Not only are there gorgeous manicured gardens and sprawling lawns stretch in every direction, but towering trees, peaceful streams, and charming bridges are scattered throughout. Along the paths, signs tell you about the different trees and share fun facts about the landscape.
We visited the Greenbrier in June, while the flowers were at their height of bloom. I’ve seen pictures of the grounds covered in snow and those are equally as beautiful. I’m sure the fall would also be stunning with the brilliant colors of the changing leaves.
Carriage tours are available to show you the grounds and gardens, so if you don’t feel like walking this is a great way to see the Greenbrier.
The Greenbrier Chapel
Nestled among lush greenery and towering trees on the north lawn is one of the resorts newer additions, The Greenbrier Chapel. Though it was built in 2015, the timber-framed chapel, with its whitewashed exterior, looks like it’s been part of the resort forever. Inside, the stunning chandeliers hang beautifully against the rustic wood beams. The chapel is open for visitors to explore during the week and hosts a nondenominational service on Sunday mornings. It’s also a popular spot for weddings at The Greenbrier. In fact, it was originally built for the wedding of the owner’s daughter.
The President’s Cottage Museum
Over the years, The Greenbrier has welcomed 26 U.S. presidents, starting with President Dwight D. Eisenhower in 1956. The Presidents Cottage, built in 1835, once served as a private retreat for visiting leaders. Today, it’s a museum celebrating their legacy. On the self-guided tour, you’ll find personal items, photos, as well as historic documents that tell the story of The Greenbrier’s presidential past. The downstairs is furnished to reflect the era in which it was built, while the upstairs rooms display more photos and artifacts. It’s worth a visit! Unless you’re a hardcore history buff, you can see everything in about 30 minutes.
The Springhouse
In the heart of The Greenbrier’s grounds, you’ll find the Springhouse, a symbol of the resort’s beginnings. This iconic white gazebo, originally built in the early 1800s over natural sulfur springs, marks the spot that first drew visitors searching for the healing powers of the mineral-rich water. As a result, you’ll quickly notice the distinct smell of sulfur coming from the spring right in the middle of the gazebo. However, as you take in the history and charm of the space, be sure to watch your step—the floor can be very slippery!
Hiking Trails
The Greenbrier offers a variety of hiking trails right on the property, making it easy and convenient to explore the vast grounds. These trails provide a peaceful escape into shady, wooded areas where you can unwind. Additionally, as you continue along the paths, you may discover open spots with breathtaking views of the Allegheny Mountains. Exploring the trails is a perfect way to enjoy both relaxation and stunning scenery.
Croquet & Shuffleboard
The Greenbrier’s croquet and shuffleboard courts are perfect spots for a little friendly competition. Set on the beautiful grounds, they’re a fun way to spend an afternoon, whether you’re a first-timer or a seasoned player.
The Greenbrier’s Iconic Decor
Love it or hate it, The Greenbrier’s interior is show stopping. Every inch of The Greenbrier is bathed in color – from the black-and-white checkered floors to the vibrant wallpapers and ornate furnishings. Some people don’t love the explosion of colors, but I am a fan (for many reasons).
In 1946, Dorothy Draper was hired to revamp the resort after its time as a military hospital. Two years and $12 million later, her bold, modern baroque style [think bright colors, bold patterns, and oversized floral prints] completely erased any trace of the sterile hospital.
Draper believed spaces should be more than just beautiful; they should make guests feel good. Her designs are whimsical and full of personality, and I’m totally here for it. I have so much respect for a woman who dared to break the mold and create something stunning even especially when it’s over the top!
Greenbrier Historic Interior Walking Tour
I’ve read Dorothy Draper’s book Decorating is Fun more than once and love her courageous and unapologetic design style. Draper Design & Co also decorated the Grand Hotel on Mackinac Island. The Behind the Scenes tour with historian Bob Tagatz there was one of my favorite activities when we stayed at The Grand.
So, taking the Historic Interior Walking Tour at the Greenbrier was a no brainer. The tour is free and meets every morning. Check the Greenbrier’s activity page for times. I definitely recommend this tour to anyone with an interest in history or design. In addition to the architectural and design history, you’ll hear fantastic stories about past guests such as the Duke and Duchess of Windsor and Princess Grace.
I highly recommend the book The Grand Design by Joy Callaway. This fictitious novel imagines what it may have been like for Dorothy Draper to transform the Greenbrier’s iconic interiors after World War II. I read it a few years before my trip to the resort and as a result I felt like I already had a connection to the Greenbrier when I arrived.
The Greenbrier Guest Rooms
The Greenbrier has 710 guest rooms, including 64 cottages and six Estate homes with a range of room categories. So while The Greenbrier is definitely a luxury resort, there are options at various price points.
Solo travelers or couples on a budget can opt for a cozy Gable Room. Traditional rooms and suites give more room to spread out. Of course, if you really want a splurge, you can book the exclusive Presidential Suite that measures 5000 square feet!
The Windsor Club level is located on its own wing and is named for the Duke and Duchess of Windsor who visited the Greenbrier often. Club guests have access to a private lounge and a dedicated concierge team.
Carlton Varney took over as President of Draper Design & Co when Dorothy Draper retired. He served that position with his office at The Greenbrier for almost 60 years. Varney believed that guest rooms should be a gift that guests open when they arrive. He likened the wallpaper to the wrapping.
Room Decor
Every one of guest rooms is decorated in a unique mix of Dorothy Draper’s signature florals, stripes, and delicate patterns. And, no two rooms are alike.
Our room had pink and white striped wall paper with royal blue tone-on-tone carpet. The elaborate drapes and swag valance were made in a large floral print, while the king bed spread was smaller floral. The dressers and nightstands (which are identical to the ones in our room at The Grand Hotel) were white with green trim.
Room Layout
Our traditional room was in the original building, dating back to 1913. It’s worth keeping in mind that in a historic hotel, you trade a bit of modern convenience for all that old-world charm especially if the hotel embraces its past.
That said, our room was surprisingly spacious with plenty of room to unwind and lots of storage. Along with the king bed and vintage-style bathroom, we had a cozy sitting area, a small desk, two full-sized dressers, and the biggest walk-in closet I’ve ever seen in a hotel.
The sitting area included two comfy chairs, one with an ottoman and a side table.
Bathroom
The bathroom was definitely smaller than those in other luxury resorts we’ve visited. But, that’s to be expected in a building originally built in 1913, so it wasn’t a surprise. I liked the vintage vibe of the black and white tile and the hand painted details. Housekeeping did not service everyday, however the vanity was stocked with a large stack of towels in advance.
Unfortunately, our view left a lot to be desired. Just the roof of an adjacent building. The good news is that The Greenbrier has so many beautiful public spaces with balconies and rocking chairs overlooking the gorgeous gardens – we didn’t miss the view in our room at all.
The Greenbrier Dress Code
Yes, The Greenbrier has a dress code, but don’t stress—it’s not super strict and actually adds to the resort’s refined atmosphere. Plus, dressing up is part of the fun! Embrace it and enjoy feeling a little fancy. Here’s what you need to know.
The Greenbrier suggests packing a mix of resort, cocktail, and formal attire. Since we weren’t planning to dine in the formal dining room, I skipped the formalwear and packed sundresses, linen sets, and a few upscale casual outfits for exploring the grounds. During the day, you’ll see plenty of guys in golf shirts or button-downs paired with khakis.
Basically, leave the cut-offs, short shorts, sweatpants and tank tops at home. Swimwear is for the pool, workout attire is for the tennis courts and other fitness areas. The restaurants have varying levels of dress code, from casual to formal. Dark denim is allowed in all but the most formal venues as long as they are not distressed. Questions? You can also read more about The Greenbrier dress code.
The Greenbrier Amenities & Activities
The Greenbrier has everything you could want, and then some. You could stay a month and still never run out of things to do! In fact, we had planned to spend some time exploring the area around White Sulphur Springs. But, with so many options right at our doorstep, we ended up never leaving the resort. Check out our post on things to do at the Greenbrier for more details.
Championship Golf Courses
The Greenbrier is synonymous world-class golf. The Greenbrier Course is the only one to have hosted both Ryder Cup and the Solheim Cup. The resort even held its own PGA tour event for many years on the Old White course, aptly called The Greenbrier Classic.
Indoor and Outdoor Swimming Pools
The zero-entry outdoor pool features an infinity edge that overlooks the golf course and the mountains—talk about a view! Surrounding the pool are comfy lounge chairs shaded by bright yellow umbrellas. If you’re looking for a little more privacy, you can rent a private cabana. The pool area also has locker rooms, a small swim shop, and Tree Tops Café, where you can order cocktails or lunch delivered right to your chair.
The indoor pool is open year-round, so you can swim even when there’s snow falling outside. Even if you’re not planning to take a dip, it’s worth stopping by to check out the beautiful Art Deco design. Fun fact: this pool was the backdrop for the pool scene in the movie IF.
There’s also a small fitness center with treadmills and free weights overlooking the pool, but it does get pretty humid in there. I didn’t see anyone using it during our stay.
Fitness Center
Located near the Golf Club, the large fitness center has everything from cardio and resistance machines to group classes and personal trainers. You can also sign up for some out-of-the-box fitness options like a guided mountain hike.
Tennis Club & Pickleball Center
Tennis is just as big a deal as golf at The Greenbrier. You can reserve both outdoor and indoor courts for a fee, and there are pickleball courts inside the tennis center too. Whether you’re a beginner or just want to sharpen your skills, guests can book private lessons with a pro or join in on group clinics.
Outdoor Adventures
Greenbrier Outfitters and Kate’s Mountain Adventures offer guests tons of outdoor adventure activities such as horseback riding and rafting. We cover those in our article about what to do at The Greenbrier.
The Greenbrier Spa & Salon
The healing sulfur springs have been attracting visitors for over 200 years, so it’s no surprise that The Greenbrier’s spa is a major highlight today. The spa focuses on holistic health, offering everything from traditional treatments and yoga to mineral salt baths, a medspa, and a full-service salon.
Honest moment: I’m probably not the best person for spa recommendations because I’m always too caught up in seeing everything at a destination to slow down and relax. I really need to change that!
For those of you who are better at prioritizing self-care, the spa reviews are outstanding. As a result of all my digging into reviews for the article, I’m seriously rethinking my choices. I’m ready to plan another trip to The Greenbrier just for the spa experience!
The Greenbrier Underground Bunker
One of the most famous “hidden” spots in the country is the fallout shelter beneath The Greenbrier’s West Virginia wing. Built in 1962 during the height of the Cold War, this massive emergency bunker was designed to house Congress in the event of a nuclear attack.
The wildest part? It was hidden in plain sight. Even The Greenbrier’s staff didn’t know it existed until 1992, when a Washington Post reporter exposed the secret. The government quickly declassified and closed the bunker, and shortly after, The Greenbrier started offering tours so guests could see it for themselves.
We are history buffs, so we couldn’t pass this up—and it didn’t disappoint. The 90-minute tour takes you deep into the hillside, where you’ll explore dorm rooms, a theater, meeting spaces, a clinic, a dining room, decontamination showers, and other areas designed to keep Congress running during a national crisis.
Since the space now serves as a network hub for major companies, no electronics—including cameras—are allowed on the tour.
Fun Fact: The room leading to the bunker is purposefully uninviting – thus, no carpet, ugly wallpaper, and only one uncomfortable sofa. Its designed specifically to discourage anyone from stopping too long.
The Casino Club
With everything from blackjack and poker to roulette and slot machines, there’s no shortage of places to try your luck at The Greenbrier’s Casino Club. Whether you’re a casual player or a high roller, there’s something for everyone. We’re not big gamblers, but we still spent some time in the casino and loved the classy, old-school atmosphere.
Additionally, a few nights each week, guests can enjoy a free champagne toast and a waltz demonstration by the Springhouse Entertainers. It’s usually held Tuesday through Saturday, but be sure to check the daily calendar so you don’t miss this fun nightcap event!
Shopping
The Greenbrier has more than 30 retail shops and boutiques to explore. You’ll find everything from formalwear to handmade jewelry and even designer dog accessories.
The designer shops are located just off the lobby. You’ll find the artisan shops located in the cabins, including the glassblowing shop where you can watch pieces being made and then take one home as a souvenir.
Not surprisingly, my personal favorite boutique was Dorothy Draper Home. This colorful shop is packed with grandmillenial and Hollywood Regency treasures. They also carried some stunning vintage and one-of-a-kind antique pieces.
I picked out the 2024 Dorothy Draper Christmas ornament for our travel tree and a signed copy of Carlton Varney’s Houses In My Heart. Attending a design weekend at The Grand Hotel or The Greenbrier and meeting Varney had been on my bucket list for years. Sadly, he passed away in 2022, so the signed book was a must have.
All The Rest
As if all of the above wasn’t enough, The Greenbrier also has a ropes course, a movie theater, two escape rooms, an arcade and a bowling alley. Trust us. You won’t be bored unless you want to be.
Dining & Drinks at The Greenbrier
Afternoon Tea
Every afternoon at 4:15, The Greenbrier keeps tradition alive with complimentary afternoon tea in the Main Lobby. We made it a point to enjoy tea most days during our stay. However, we were a bit disappointed by some parents letting their kids run wild, grabbing handfuls of cookies and leaving few for other guests. While this wasn’t The Greenbrier’s fault, it was still frustrating.
Our go-to spot for tea was the Trellis Lobby, right next to the Lobby Bar. It’s less crowded and much quieter than the Main Lobby, making it a more relaxing place to unwind.
Main Dining Room
Dress Code: Formalwear / Finest
The Main Dining Room offers a formal dining experience steeped in the tradition and elegance of a classic Southern banquet. Open for breakfast and dinner, it has a strict dress code that matches its upscale vibe. Honestly, we decided to skip the formal dining and try other spots instead, so I can’t speak to the food or service firsthand. However, several friends who dined there said they thoroughly enjoyed the entire experience.
Drapers Cafe
Dress Code: Casual
Named after The Greenbrier’s legendary interior designer, Dorothy Draper, this casual lunch spot serves up classic American favorites. We ate here twice, and everything was fantastic.
On our first visit, Jason ordered the Barrel-Aged Burger topped with blue cheese, caramelized onions, Applewood smoked bacon, and a bourbon glaze. I went for the Windsor Burger, loaded with Brie cheese, prosciutto, and fig and port jam. Both were absolutely delicious.
The next day, I tried Dorothy’s Chicken Salad, and it did not disappoint. Jason couldn’t stop raving about Draper’s Hot Chicken—the flavor was spot on! His only gripe? He wished there was more of that amazing sauce. Later that afternoon, while Jason was in a meeting, I snuck back for some homemade ice cream. Totally worth it!
The Lobby Bar
Dress Code: Business Casual
The Lobby Bar is the perfect spot to unwind between afternoon tea and dinner. Start your afternoon with tea at 4:15, then stick around and treat yourself to a glass of wine or one of the bar’s signature cocktails. The relaxed, elegant atmosphere makes it a great place to recharge before dinner.
If you’re a fan of classic films, don’t miss the chandelier because it’s had a starring role in a classic film. This gorgeous piece hung in the Twelve Oaks plantation during the iconic opening scenes of Gone With the Wind. Look closely, and you’ll notice oak leaf-shaped crystals hanging from the bottom, a subtle nod to the film’s Southern setting.
And that beautiful tone-on-tone wallpaper? It’s not wallpaper at all. It’s a hand-painted mural that took an artist and their assistant an entire week to complete. The intricate detail adds a unique, personal touch that makes the space feel even more special.
Cafe Carlton
Dress Code: Resort Attire
Cafe Carlton is located near the casino. And, just as the rest of the Greenbrier decor is memorable, this cozy bar has a very distinctive style. The bar is decked out in rich red velvets with murals of stage performers dancing on all the walls. Not only is Cafe Carlton dressed to look like a fabulous nineteenth century cabaret hall, but they do have live entertainment on weekends.
We signed up for Bourbon at the Bar in Cafe Carlton on the first night of our stay and it was one of the highlights of our trip! At this private event, two bartenders introduce you to five bourbons distilled specifically for The Greenbrier. Read more about our Bourbon at the Bar experience.
Twelve Oaks
Dress Code: Resort Attire
We headed to Twelve Oaks Bar for a quick dinner after our Bourbon at the Bar tasting in Cafe Carlton. This equestrian themed bar is located inside the Casino. Twelve Oaks also serves selected items from Drapers. We both ordered pizzas and they were absolutely delicious. I had the New Greenbrier Peach and Jason ordered the Stuffed Meat Lovers. I dreamed about that peach pie the rest of the trip, until I finally had to order another one from the Lobby Bar the night before we left. And, of course I had to have a mint julep cocktail at this equestrian themed bar – also delicious.
Sam Sneads
Dress Code: Resort Attire
Named for legendary golfer and Greenbrier pro Sam Snead, this golf themed restaurant was our first stop after checking in. Our table was next the massive window overlooking the 18th tee and we enjoyed watched golfers finish their games while we ate. The restaurant’s warm, rustic decor is a tribute to Snead’s legacy and the sport of golf. Even if you aren’t a golf lover, the historic golf memorabilia on the walls and in cases is very cool to see. I wholeheartedly recommend the Sunburst Trout Sandwich, served on jalapeno corn bread. it is both unexpected and delightful. Also, our server recommended the Greenbrier Signature Bloody Mary and I will tell you – it was fantastic.
Slammin’ Sammys
Dress Code: Resort Attire
Slammin’ Sammys is the sports bar side of Sam Sneads and as a result, they share many of the same menu items. However, the vibe is more relaxed on this side. With views of the golf course, live sports on big screen tvs, and a variety of games like foosball, shuffleboard, billiards Slammin’ Sammys is a fun place to spend an afternoon or evening. We had lunch here on our last day at the Greenbrier. The grilled chicken wrap and the wings were both fantastic. Oh, and definitely get the fries. They are delicious!
The Forum
Dress Code: Resort Casual
The Forum serves rustic Italian fare made with the freshest ingredients. We dined here on a night that we had eaten a late lunch, so neither of us was very hungry. So, we opted for cocktails and appetizers. I was envious of the table next to us piled high with homemade pastas, pizzas, and fresh seafood. This is definitely one on my list when we go back to the Greenbrier.
The Greenbrier Gourmet & Coffee Bar
Dress Code: Casual
The Greenbrier Gourmet doubles duty as a kitchenwares shop and a place to grab a pastry, sandwich, or other snack. I’m not much of a breakfast eater, but I stopped by for a bagel one morning. Not only did the pastries and sandwiches looked delicious, but there was a line out the door every morning.
NBR TIP: The Greenbrier provides complimentary coffee in the upper lobby each morning. Stop by for a free coffee and then head to the Greenbrier Gourmet to pick up a pastry.
Own a Piece of Greenbrier Real Estate
The Greenbrier is proud of the fact that presidents, dignitaries, business leaders, royalty, and other distinguished guests have called the resort home for over 200 years. If you’d also like to be a part of that exclusive club, you can buy your own private residence at The Greenbrier. The private homes are available through the Legacy Cottages and the Greenbrier Sporting Club. Both clubs come with some pretty fancy benefits – and a pretty fancy price tag. The legacy cottages range in price from $1 million to $11 million. A staff member saw me gawking at the showroom and encouraged me to go check out the available properties. (Ummmm. Maybe next time)
Conference and Reception at The Greenbrier
As I mentioned, we were at The Greenbrier for a conference so we got to see the complete conference center facility and meeting rooms. Even the huge conference rooms were decorated in Greenbrier style with rhododendron carpets and rich colors. On our last evening at The Greenbrirer we attended a cocktail reception on the lawn and it was absolutely beautiful. This courtyard would be an absolutely gorgeous wedding or event venue, especially at golden hour and the staff was amazing.
How to Get to The Greenbrier Resort
The Greenbrier is in the Alleghany Mountains in the town of White Sulphur Springs, WV, which is just over the Virginia state line. While secluded and somewhat remote, there are several easy ways to access the resort.
Commercial Flights
Roanoke-Blacksburg Regional (ROA) and Charleston West Virginia International (CRW) are both within a two hours drive from The Greenbrier. We chose to fly into Roanoke since it is the closer of the two and rented a car for the drive.
Private Jets
The Greenbrier Valley Airport (LWB) is only 15 minutes from the resort. However, it is much smaller and only handles private jets plus Contour Air flights from Charlotte.
The Greenbrier offers shuttle service to and from all three airports for a fee.
Amtrak Train
The White Sulphur Springs train station sits across the street from the Greenbrier entrance. Amtrak offers direct service from New York, Washington D.C., and Chicago.
Driving
Of course, for those within driving distance, the scenery along Interstate 64 through the Alleghany Mountains is really beautiful. The resort is less than a mile off Interstate.
FAQs About The Greenbrier Resort
Final Thoughts About The Greenbrier Resort
The Greenbrier surprised us in so many ways. Because I have been a Dorothy Draper fan for so long, I knew I would love the colorful decor and elegant atmosphere. But, we had no idea how friendly and helpful the staff would be or how much there would be to do at the resort. We had a great experience with everyone we met. The food was delicious and the property was absolutely stunning. All in all, we had a wonderful stay at The Greenbrier and can’t wait to go back!
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